WheelsThe front tyre on both the TS 250 and ETZ 250 are a little on the skinny side (2.75 section), It would be desirable to fit a 3.00 section tyre (as many of the racers do). This is relatively easy, by using the rim from the rear wheel from a TS 125/150. The rim is laced to the front hub from your TS 250 or ETZ 250. Lacing of rims to hubs is not a job for the faint hearted (or impatient). Many specialists can do this at reasonable cost. The result is improved handling and stability from the front end with a wider choice of tyres.
Brakes - Supa 5 Front Brake Disc ConversionThe TS 250/1 (Supa 5) is not renown for its stopping ability (more for its gentle retardation ability). A conversion to disc brakes is sensible (if not essential in the current myopic kamikaze fest, known as the rush hour). The actual conversion, utilising an ETZ front end (yokes, stanchions, sliders, wheel and disc assembly, calliper, clutch lever and brake master cylinder assembly, switchgear, handlebars and choke lever) is fairly straight forward. It is advisable to use the ETZ yokes. The ETZ stanchions fit the Supa 5 yokes, but as the ETZ yokes are 5mm wider (to allow for the disc) using the TS yokes results in the front wheel being off-set by 2mm. Probably not good for the handling, or likelihood of passing the MOT. To start with remove the TS forks and yokes. Should the fork stanchions be reluctant to slide out (they are prone to rusting in) and penetrating oil (WD40 etc.) doesn't seem to be helping, pour boiling water over the fork top nut. The heat will cause the yoke to expand slightly and "break" the corrosion. Fit the ETZ fork assembly (disc calliper mountings on the right). This may cause a slight problem as the ETZ bottom yoke is slightly different (see diagram below).
This means when the top nuts are fully tightened and the fork stanchions have been pulled all the way up, the rubber bushes on the original headlamp brackets are a bit crushed. So far, I haven't had any problems from vibration, but you could cut a little off each of the headlamp brackets. The other problem was the headlamp shell was catching on the steering lock bracket. The only solution was to cut it off. As you will be using the ETZ top yoke you won't be able to use the steering lock anyway. The original TS flat type bars are too narrow and too flat so the ETZ type will have to be used or a set that are 27" wide with a 1.5" rise. Rewiring (if you are using the ETZ switchgear) is easy enough as the ETZ uses the same colour wires as the TS. It is a job worth doing and it presents a good opportunity to rebuild the new forks, calliper and steering head bearings. It may be worth considering fitting braided brake hose as the original rubber ones when they become tired are prone to expanding in use, thereby reducing efficiency. There is also the option to wire in the brake light switch. No responsibility can be taken for missing/untrue information or incompetence. Thanks to Dave Gillespie. |
